Technical Support for Water Treatment Systems in Greater Winchester

Neutralizer Service R 502

• Determine if water is being used in the house and if so, ask if it can be shut off or bypass the unit if possible. You may not want to do this in high-iron situations.
• Shut off water into and out of the unit.
• Relieve the built-up pressure in the unit by placing the valve in backwash mode. Once the pressure is relieved, return the valve to normal service position.
• Remove the access cap.
• Measure the level of neutralizer material in the tank in relation to the top of the tank. Maximum fill height is typically 13-14" from the top.
• Siphon out the appropriate amount of water to allow room to add neutralizer material. (Typically, about 2/3 of the volume of material you plan on adding.) For example, if you plan on adding a full bucket of R-502, siphon about 2/3 bucket of water out. Siphon off about ½"-1" of old neutralizer material as well.
• Add neutralizer material to the desired level. (Typically, 13-14" from the top) Check as often as necessary with a tape measure to get an accurate level. Avoid overfilling as this will waste material and possibly clog drain lines.
• Put the valve into the backwash position again.
• Open the inlet valve and fill the tank up to the level of the fill hole, close the valve.
• Return the valve to the service position again.
• Reinstall the access cap.
• Re-pressurize the unit.
• If more than ¼ cuft of material has been added, allow 5 minutes for the material to become saturated, and then put the unit into an immediate regeneration. If less than ¼ cuft has been added, set the unit to regenerate that night. This prevents the finer particles from working their way down into the tank and causing a pressure drop.
• Check the timer and reset if necessary.
• Close the bypass valve, and open the outlet valve to restore water to the house.

Generally, 1 bag will add 3-4" in a 12 or 13" tank.

UV Bulb Replacement

• Make sure no water is being used.
• Turn off the outlet valve from UV.
• Unplug UV.
• Allow to cool down- bulb and harness will be hot.
• Gently disconnect the bulb from the wiring harness.

Remember: The bulb is inside of a quartz sleeve. Banging the bulb against the quartz sleeve could result in the breakage of the sleeve.

• Remove the old bulb.
• Put the new bulb in the sleeve.
• Gently plug the new bulb into the wiring harness.
• Plug the UV back in.

Note: On some units, it is necessary to reset the timer, which typically requires holding in the reset button while plugging in the unit, waiting for a beep, and then releasing the reset button.

• Once the bulb is lit, reopen the outlet valve from the UV.

Chlorination of UV With a Pre-Filter

• Fill a bucket with water for rinsing.
• Turn off valves before and after the filter.
• Release pressure from the filter by pushing down the pressure relief button on top of the filter housing.
• Unscrew filter housing.
• Remove the old filter and rinse out the housing.
• Be careful not to lose the black "O" ring.
• Be sure the "O" ring and part of the filter top where the "O" ring seals are clean.
• Fill housing about ½ full of standard household bleach.
• Screw housing to filter top.
• Open in and out valves.
• Run each cold-water faucet in-house, (one at a time), until you smell the bleach, then turn it off.
• Run hot water until you feel bleach has been pulled into the water heater.
• Close in and out valves.
• Repeat steps 3-7.
• Put the new filter in the housing.
• Tighten housing.
• Open valves.

• Remove the lamp.
• Shut off the water supply and drain all lines.
• Remove the lowest connection on the disinfection system and drain the UV chamber (use a small bucket under the unit to prevent a spill) Note: on S12Q-PA and SSM-39 systems, the reactor is provided with a ¼" drain port. On this system simply remove the drain plug and allow water to drain into a bucket.
• Remove aluminum gland nuts from the chamber, checking for the free-floating spring inside the sleeve at the opposite end to the lamp connection (do not allow the quartz sleeve to fall).
• Carefully remove the o rings from the quartz sleeve. As the o ring may tend to adhere to the quartz sleeve, it is recommended to replace the O rings annually.
• Clean the outside of the quartz sleeve with a cloth soaked in CLR, vinegar, or some other mild acid, and then rinse.
• Re-assemble the quartz sleeve with spring in the UV chamber allowing the sleeve to protrude an equal distance from both ends of the UV chamber.
• Wet the o rings and slide them onto each end of the quartz sleeve and reassemble the gland nuts (hand tight is sufficient).
• Re-tighten all connections, turn on the water, and check for leaks.
• Plug in the ballast and verify the POWER-ON LED is illuminated and the ballast power-up sequence operates.

• Shut off the water going into the RO. ( typically the right-hand side of the unit).
• Shut off the valve on top of the holding tank.
• Open the RO faucet to relieve pressure. Shut off the faucet when water stops flowing.
• Unscrew the housings, rinse them out, and make sure the "O" rings are clean. Replace the filters. (Typically, right to left- 5 micron, 1 micron, carbon block).
• At this point, if you want to check the pressure in the tank, you can do so by draining all of the water from it and checking pressure with a pressure gauge. It should be around 8 lbs.
• Turn all valves back on.

Changing the Filter Cartridges (PRE, RO, POST)

(Refer to Installation)

Removal

• Open the RO faucet for a glass of water and close.
• Turn the system feed off and wait for 20 seconds.
• The system has now been depressurized for the safe removal of the cartridges.
• Towels should be placed under the system first.
• Remove cartridges with a clockwise upward twist.

Replacement

• Remove the red cap from the top of the filter cart ridge.
• With a black permanent marker, write the date on each filter to track replacement time. Filters last up to a year in most cases.
• Pre-fill filter cartridges with bottled water or tap water.
• Attach the post-filter in the labeled POST position, the RO-Filter in the labeled RO position, and the pre-filter in the labeled PRE position, with a twisting counterclockwise upward motion until you feel and hear stop tabs touch (see Figure 15).

Note: Make sure your cartridges are inserted completely!

Figure 15: Changing Filters

Recommended Filter Replacement

The frequency at which the membrane and filters should be replaced depends upon the quality of the water that enters the appliance. Contact your WOW Water specialist or visit www.wowwater.com for replacement filters and parts.

Note: The installation of the WOW RO System appliance on a pre-treated water supply will greatly increase the life of its filters.

Note: Any filter that demonstrates reduced water production or a slower rate of flow is overdue for a change.

Warning: Shut off water to the appliance before beginning any maintenance.

Filter: Recommended replacement (months) -

• Replacement Sediment/Carbon Pre-Filter (RED) Part # 20-201-001 - 6-12 months
• Replacement Reverse Osmosis Membrane (GREEN) Part # 20-250-001 - 12-24 months
• Replacement Carbon Post-Filter (BLUE) Part # 20-202-001 - 6-12 months

The image on the far left marked as IN Use is the service position. Notice that the bypass valves are in line with the pipes. This is how the valves should look when the unit is being used.

The image on the right marked as NOT In Use is the bypass position. Notice that the bypass valves are perpendicular to the pipes. This is how the valves should look when the unit is bypassed.

Some units have a 3-valve bypass built around the unit:

The image on the left marked as IN Use is the service position. Notice that the in and out valves are in line with the pipes (open) and the bypass valve is perpendicular to the pipe (shut). This is how the valves should look when the unit is being used.

The image on the right is marked as NOT In Use bypass position. Notice that the in and out valves are perpendicular to the pipes (shut) and the bypass valve is in line with the pipe (open). This is how the valves should look when the unit is bypassed.

• Check the gauge at the pressure tank. If it is properly functioning, it should generally be reading anywhere from 20 to 60 psi.
• If the pressure gauge is reading 0, check the circuit breakers/ fuses. Sometimes a breaker may appear to be on but is actually tripped. Turn the breaker off, and then back on.
• Put a hose on the valve at the bottom of the pressure tank and run water. If you get at least 5 gallons of water under pressure here, then the problem is most likely not in the well but in the plumbing.
• If the pressure comes back on by itself, and there are wide swings in the pressure in the house, then the switch and/ or nipple leading to the switch is/are most likely clogged.
• If you get no water at the bottom of the pressure tank, carefully remove the cover to the pressure switch and see if the contacts are closed.
• If you have a multimeter, carefully check for voltage on each of the 4 legs of the switch.
• If the contacts are closed and there is voltage on each of the 4 legs of the switch, then the problem is either in the well pump itself or the pump control box mounted on the wall nearby.
• Pump control boxes have a capacitor in them, and they will blow if there is a well pump problem. Just replacing the pump control box will not necessarily solve the problem.
• If you have pressure at the pressure tank, and you have water treatment equipment, bypass the equipment one piece at a time to possibly figure out if one of the units is causing the problem.
• If there is a cartridge-type filter in line, investigate that first, even though it may not appear dirty.
• WELL ISSUE? Is it possible to connect a garden hose from your neighbor's house to yours so you have water until we can get out there and solve the issue? You will need a female-by-female hose (i.e. washing machine hose) or adapter to do this since both hose bibs are male and a garden hose is male and female.